Übersetzung im Kontext von „Tarock“ in Deutsch-Spanisch von Reverso Context: Sie spielen Tarock? - Ja. Ich kenne die Regeln. Die Kartenlegerin praktiziert diese Wahrsagekunst. Es gibt Meisterschaften von Tarok. Man kann auch Tarock im Internet spielen. Twitter Share German exercise ". vantiggelen.nu [PC Download]: vantiggelen.nu: Games.
Tarokk Net Inhaltsverzeichnis
We use secure software and protect your privacy at vantiggelen.nu Ordering cards is secure and easy. We ship your cards the next business day. VISA MASTERCARD DISCOVER AMERICAN EXPRESS eCHECK. Thank you for visiting the vantiggelen.nu card store! Ordering Schafkopf cards is secure and easy. Tarock ist die Bezeichnung für eine große Familie von Kartenspielen, die in vielen Ländern März im Internet Archive) von Wolfgang Mayr & Robert Sedlaczek in Wiener Zeitung, 7 Feb ↑ Zitiert nach österreichischen. Übersetzung im Kontext von „Tarock“ in Deutsch-Spanisch von Reverso Context: Sie spielen Tarock? - Ja. Ich kenne die Regeln. Übersetzung im Kontext von „Tarock“ in Deutsch-Englisch von Reverso Context: Beim anderen handelt es sich um ein Tarock und wird im entsprechenden. Tarock/Tarot mit italienischen (portugiesischen) Farben Kurzer geschichtlicher Abriss des Tarock. *** Tarok (Slowenien): vantiggelen.nu und vantiggelen.nu Die Kartenlegerin praktiziert diese Wahrsagekunst. Es gibt Meisterschaften von Tarok. Man kann auch Tarock im Internet spielen. Twitter Share German exercise ".
Die Kartenlegerin praktiziert diese Wahrsagekunst. Es gibt Meisterschaften von Tarok. Man kann auch Tarock im Internet spielen. Twitter Share German exercise ". Tarock ist die Bezeichnung für eine große Familie von Kartenspielen, die in vielen Ländern März im Internet Archive) von Wolfgang Mayr & Robert Sedlaczek in Wiener Zeitung, 7 Feb ↑ Zitiert nach österreichischen. Übersetzung im Kontext von „Tarock“ in Deutsch-Englisch von Reverso Context: Beim anderen handelt es sich um ein Tarock und wird im entsprechenden.
Tarokk Net Thanks for helping keep SourceForge clean. VideoQSG GAMEPLAY #3 - Tarok
You are not allowed to annul the hand on the basis of any of the last four holdings if you have discarded a tarokk into the skart but see variations.
However, a player who holds four kings can annul the hand even after discarding a tarokk. A hand can only be annulled immediately after the talon exchange; once the round of announcements is underway it is too late.
It may not be immediately obvious that four kings is a bad holding. In fact kings are usually a liability in this game - they are worth 5 points but they nearly always get trumped and you are not allowed to discard them into the skart.
When a hand is annulled, there is no score. The cards are thrown in, the same dealer deals again, and the next four or five hands depending on the number of players are played for doubled scores, in the same way as if the deal had been passed out.
After everyone has discarded, there is what sounds like a second auction. This one starts with the declarer and proceeds anticlockwise around the table, possibly for several rounds.
There are four types of announcement that can be made at this time:. There are three circumstances in which the declarer is allowed to call a tarokk other than the XX :.
If you hold the called tarokk you are the declarer's partner, but you must not make any sign to reveal this.
Your identity as the partner will only become known in the course of the subsequent announcements and play. Sometimes the partnerships will remain a mystery right up to the point when the called tarokk is played.
If you are confident that your side is going to win a particular bonus, you can announce during the round of announcements that your side is going for this bonus.
You and your partner win twice as much if you succeed, but if you fail, you both lose the amount that you would have won. In most cases the bonuses, silent and announced, are scored independently of each other and of the game; you can win some and lose others.
In the same way an opponent of a player who announced a bonus may kontra the announcement, doubling the score for it. After the game or an announcement has been kontra'd, either member of the side which originally announced it may rekontra it, which doubles the score for that item again.
Theoretically, the process can continue with further doubles: the opponents of the announcers can "szubkontra", the announcers can then "hirskontra" and their opponents can then "mordkontra".
Kontras above szubkontra are rare in practice. Any player with 8 or 9 tarokks may declare the fact during the round of announcements, and is immediately paid for it by each of the other three active players.
The payment is 1 point from each player each for 8 tarokks nyolc tarokk , and 2 points from each for 9 tarokks kilenc tarokk.
It is not normally compulsory to make these declarations. If you have 8 or 9 tarokks and do not declare them during the round of announcements, you can still claim payment for them from your partner at the end of the hand, but not from the opponents.
There is a school of thought that it is unsporting to claim payment from your partner for undeclared tarokks unless your team has won enough on the hand to cover the payment.
The declarer speaks first and may declare tarokks. The declarer must call a partner , may then go on to announce bonuses , and must end by saying "pass" passz or mehet.
Any declaration of tarokks comes first, then the calling of a partner, and finally bonus announcements in any order. The round of announcements now continues in anticlockwise rotation.
Each player, at their turn, may declare tarokks, announce bonuses, and kontra things announced by the other team, always ending by saying "pass", to indicate that the next player may now speak.
The round of announcements continues as many times around the table as necessary until three players in succession do nothing except pass.
In general any player can announce any bonus, and all announcements are made on behalf of the announcer's team. When a player announces a bonus, it is necessary to know which team they belong to - i.
Without this arrangement it would become impossible to kontra these announcements, as you would not know whether you were playing with or against the announcer.
This is achieved as follows:. Here some examples of rounds of announcements. Player B is the declarer in each case:. After the round of announcements the play of the hand begins.
The player to dealer's right leads to the first trick, and the winner of each trick leads to the next. Any card may be led to a trick, and the other players in turn must follow suit - i.
If a suit is led and you have no cards of that suit, you must play a tarokk if you have one. Only if you have neither tarokks nor cards in the suit led are you free to play any card.
The trick is won by the highest tarokk in it, or, if it contains no tarokk, by the highest card of the suit led. You may not play it until you are forced to by the above rules of following suit and playing a tarokk if unable to.
Since often during the early stages of the play you do not know who your partner is, players keep their own tricks in separate face-down piles, and the defenders' part of the discard must also be kept separate.
Only when the called tarokk has been played or some other event has occurred which proves which players are partners can the piles be combined into two: declarer's cards and defenders' cards.
When all nine tricks have been played, the card points taken by each side are counted and the hand is scored.
The player to the right of the previous dealer then shuffles, has the cards cut, and deals the next hand. The scoring system is designed for people who settle up by pushing money across the table at the end of each hand.
In contracts with two players on each side, each player on the losing team pays one of the players on the winning team the net score for the game and any bonuses which happened on that hand.
If you are playing alone against the other three players together because you called your own XX or a discarded tarokk , you are paid the net score by each of them or if you lose you pay it to each of them , so the value to declarer of such contracts is three times as much.
When there are five players the payments are only between the four active players; the dealer neither wins nor loses. If you prefer to note the scores on a score sheet, then receipts are recorded as plus and payments as minus, so that the scores of the players always add up to zero.
First, the cards taken by each team are counted, using the scale of card points explained above. There are 94 card points altogether.
If the declarer's team have taken at least 48 points more than half they have won the game. The opponents win if they have 47 or more.
If either team has more than three quarters of the card points, so that the other side has 23 points or fewer, they have won a double game. The basic payment for the game depends on the bid.
The following table summarises the amount by which the basic game score is to be multiplied in various situations, according to the number of card points or tricks taken by the declarer's team.
Positive multipliers indicate that declarer's team wins; negative multipliers indicate that the opponents win. The above table does not give an exhaustive list of possible situations, but should be sufficient to illustrate how the scoring works.
For example if the bid is "two", the declarer announces double game, the opponents kontra the double game and the game, and the declarer's team takes 52 card points, the score is -6 times 2, that is 12 points paid to the opponents.
This is made up of 4 points won by the declarer's team for the kontra'd game and 16 points won by the opponents for the kontra'd announcement of double game.
The next table summarises the scores for other bonuses and declarations. These scores are not affected by the basic game value; they are the same, no matter what type of game was bid:.
All of the above scores for bonuses and declarations are available to either team. It is possible for a bonus to be scored twice by one team - for example: if four kings are announced but the opposing team manages to capture all four kings, the successful team scores 3 points for this - 2 points for the failed announcement plus 1 point for their own silent four kings.
It is even possible for both teams to announce the same bonus: for example team A announces four kings, but team B kontras this and also announces four kings.
Now if either side actually takes all four kings they will score 6 points; if the kings are split both announcements will be lost, and team B 's net score for the two announcements will be 2 points.
The purpose of conventional bidding is to enable two players who hold strong hands including honours to arrange to be partners, even when neither of them holds the XX.
This helps them to announce and make more valuable bonuses. The main purpose of making a cue bid is to enable the eventual winner of the bidding to become your partner by calling the card you have indicated.
In Hungarian these bids are called "invit" literally invitations , but we have found that new players learning the game find the term "invitation" for these bids confusing, so here I use instead the term "cue bid", borrowed from Bridge.
However, unlike Bridge conventions, these bidding conventions are part of the rules of the game. It is illegal to make a cue bid or to yield the game if you do not hold the indicated tarokk.
On the other hand you are not forced to make a cue bid or yield just because you hold the requisite cards - you may pass or make the minimum bid instead if you wish.
Normally a player who makes a cue bid will have a fairly strong hand and a high honour. Note that using normal bidding conventions it is not possible to cue bid the XVII.
The only possibility of a triple jump would be an opening bid of Solo, and that cannot usefully be given a conventional meaning as a cue bid, since no one can bid over it to call the indicated card.
A possible method of cue bidding the XVII is explained in the variations section. This can only occur when one player has bid three , someone else has bid two , and both of the other players have passed.
There are quite a lot of minor variations in the rules and conventions observed by different circles of tarokk players.
In choosing which rules to present above as the standard version of the game, I have been greatly helped by a survey carried out in by Gyula Zsigri, in which he obtained responses from members of 11 different groups of tarokk players in various parts of Hungary about which version of the rules they play.
On a separate page, you can see a summary of the survey results. Where there was a clear majority, I have followed the majority view of the people surveyed, and in this way I hope I have produced a description which is fairly representative of the way tarokk is actually played in Hungary now.
Nevertheless, most of these books describe versions of tarokk which differ in various ways from the rules most commonly played.
In some cases this is because the books give older versions of the rules. In others it is because the authors are attempting to introduce rule changes of their own invention, often in the form of different scores and extra bonuses.
Few of these proposed changes have been adopted to any great extent in actual play. Some players use the fours of the red suits instead of aces. This makes no actual difference to the game, but has the slight practical advantage that the fours of hearts and diamonds are easier to tell apart than the aces, having suit symbols in the corners.
Some players allow the person to dealer's left, instead of cutting the cards, to refuse to cut by knocking on the top of the pack instead. In this case, after dealing the first six cards to the talon, the dealer must deal the remaining cards in batches of nine.
Each active player in turn, starting to the left of the dealer and going around clockwise decides which batch to take as their hand.
There is an important variation in the rule about holding. The original rule was that you can only hold the bid of another player if your first turn to speak was earlier, and no one else has already held that bid.
So if the players in anticlockwise order starting to dealer's right are A , B , C and D , A can hold the bids of all the other players, B can hold bids by C and D , C can hold bids by D , and D can never hold.
Most of the books still give this rule, and a significant minority of players still follow it. The biggest practical difference occurs in cue bid sequences.
With the old rule A 's cue bid would be pointless as no one else would be allowed to bid after it - if A wanted to cue bid he should have done so at his first turn.
If a player bids three and everyone else passes, some groups allow the bidder to increase the bid to two or one before taking cards from the talon.
This purpose of this rule is to allow for the fact that the bidder might want play two or one, but was not allowed to bid it originally, lacking the necessary cards for a cue bid.
Some people do not play with the doubling of scores after a hand is passed out or annulled. In this variation, the cards are thrown in, the turn to deal passes to the next dealer and the game continues with normal scoring as before.
Some play that if a hand is passed out or annulled during a doubled round, an additional round of hands for doubled stakes is played after the end of the currently scheduled set of doubled hands.
No hand is ever played for quadrupled or higher stakes. Others play that if a hand is passed out or annulled during a doubled round, a complete round of deals is then played for quadrupled stakes.
In this version the stakes are usually not allowed to be doubled further; if another passed or annulled hand occurs during the quadrupled round, the period of quadrupled stakes is simply extended to last for a complete round after this occurrence.
There are many players who do not allow tarokk XX to be discarded. In Gyula Zsigri's survey respondents were almost equally split between those who allow this and those who do not.
If you play the version in which it is illegal to discard the XX , then there is little point in the rule releasing the declarer from the obligation to call the XX if a tarokk has been discarded by any of the other players.
In this case, it may be agreed that discarded tarokks are to be admitted at your first turn to speak in the round of announcements, rather than immediately after the discard.
Some players who do not allow the XX to be discarded nevertheless still follow the rule that if one of the other players has discarded a tarokk, the declarer can call any tarokk other than an honour.
Some players admit fewer holdings which allow the deal to be annulled. The only one universally acknowledged is the singleton XXI. Some players allow the hand to be annulled by a player who has discarded tarokks.
This makes annulments much more frequent. For example, a player whose XXI is guarded by only one or two other tarokks will try to discard these so as to throw in the hand and avoid a XXI-catch.
Some players treat declarations of 8 or 9 tarokks like bonus announcements. A player who declares tarokks and whose allegiance is not yet known is assumed to be on the same side as the most recent speaker in the round of announcements who did not just say pass.
Also, if you make an announcement when the most recent announcement made was a declaration of tarokks, you are assumed to be on the same side as the player with the tarokks unless it can be proved otherwise.
A few people play that a player who has discarded the called tarokk must state that this is the case when announcing their obligatory kontra of the game.
Illustrated Hungarian Tarokk , which adds six further announced bonuses, is described on a separate page. For example:. Some play that if the opponents say kontra to the game, the number of card points they need to win is increased from 47 to if the card points divide the declarer's side win.
If the recipient forgets to pay before the deal of the next hand is complete, the previous dealer can claim double payment.
This rather pointless rule is nowadays rarely played. There is an important variation in the interpretation of cue bids. The original rule was that any jump bid of solo was a cue bid of the XVIII , even if it was only a single jump.
Most of the books still give this rule, but the majority of players have gone over to the newer interpretation, whereby any single jump is a cue bid of the XIX.
The idea is that a single jump bid at your first opportunity is a cue bid of the XIX , whereas if you first make a minimum bid and then a single jump on your second turn to bid, this would be interpreted as a cue bid of the XVII.
For example in each of the following auctions:. Before discussing the details of bidding, announcements and play, it is useful to have a general idea of what constitutes a strong or weak hand.
By a strong hand we mean one that has the power to take more than an average share of the tricks. By winning tricks you not only gain card points but also choose what card to lead next, and so decide the course of the play.
The strength of a hand depends mainly on tarokks: how many you have and how high they are. An average hand has 5 tarokks.
A hand of 7 or 8 small tarokks most of which are small is less strong than it may at first appear - although you can play a trump to most tricks you will not often have the lead, and so will not be able to control the game.
In general the fewer different suits you have, the stronger your cards are. Suits of two or more cards headed by a king are stronger than unheaded suits.
A suit consisting of a lone king and no other cards is a disadvantage. Normally it is good to have a strong hand, but when there is a prospect of a XXI-catch, players often need to avoid taking tricks.
A strong hand for taking tricks is generally not such a good hand for catching or saving the XXI; what a good hand is for that purpose is dealt with separately under XXI-catch.
Tarokk is a game where players holding fairly poor cards often play important roles. If you pick up a weak hand, it is not time to relax.
The play of a weak hand can require more concentration than when your hand is strong: you must try to deduce where the strength lies and how the cards are distributed among the other players, so that you can play in a way that will help your partner.
It is a rule that you must have an honour to bid, but it is important to realise that apart from this it is not necessary to have a particularly strong hand.
Your initial task as declarer is only to take more than half of the card points. If the game is three or two your team will be exchanging at least as many talon cards as the opponents, you have an honour and your partner will have at least one good tarokk the called card.
However, playing dead like this rarely works against good players. Experience suggests that it is better for a weak XXI to bid so as to become declarer, or at least to obtain more than one card from the talon.
Discarding two cards should create at least one void suit on which the XXI may escape. The only case in which passing is definitely better is when you are sitting in fourth position after three passes, in which case you can annul the hand by passing.
With this hand you expect to be called by the eventual winner of the bidding in any case, and then your partner will have a high honour, rather than just the XIX that you would have to call.
There are two ways in which this plan can go wrong: if your hand is too strong there is a danger that everyone else might pass; and if your hand is weak there is a danger that the players with the other two honours might get together successfully by means of a cue bid, cutting out your XX.
There is one case in which you should nearly always bid if you have an honour: if the player to your immediate left bids three you should automatically bid two if it is legal.
If you are left to play the two it is a yielded game, and you have an excellent partner with the XX and a high honour.
On the other hand, if the player to your left bids again you are relieved of the responsibility of being declarer and you have gained an additional card from the talon.
To yield the game you do not need so much strength - often you would rather have a partner with an honour than a partner with the XIX.
Finally, it is important for everyone to remember the bidding during the rest of the hand. Anyone who bids must have at least one of the three honours, so if two or three people have bid, you already have useful information about the position of these cards.
From the point of view of getting the maximum number of points in your part of the skart, since kings and honours cannot be discarded, the best discards are queens and riders for everyone except the declarer's partner.
If you hold the XX and know you are going to be called, then from this point of view you would prefer to discard a ten or an ace, because your discard will belong to the declarer's opponents.
At the stage of the game when you have to discard, you may have few clues from the bidding about the locations of the key cards or who the partners will be.
Sometimes, however, you know or can guess the position, and this may influence your discard. If you want to take the lead as often as possible, you prefer to keep just one or two suits and discard other suits entirely.
On the other hand, if you want to avoid having to lead, you will do better to keep cards in as many different suits as you can, so that you will not be forced to win tricks with your tarokks when these suits are led.
Other things being equal, you want to lead when your partner is on your left playing last , but when your partner is on your right you sometimes want to avoid taking the lead.
Do not be afraid to announce trull. In general, trull should be announced by the declarer's team whenever they have both top honours, unless their cards are exceptionally weak.
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